Vintage pattern sewing: McCalls 2123, the underpants

It isn't obvious from the pattern front, but McCalls 2123 does include an underpants pattern, which I think is nice. Somehow I always want my dolls to be wearing underpants, and I'm always on the look-out for a perfect pattern.

This one wants you to sew elastic around the waist, but I don't like that method for fashion dolls. For one thing, it's very difficult to slide them up the legs--especially bendable legs--and over the hips. I put them on Midge because her rigid legs are smooth and make dressing her a little easier.

But look how they gap around the waist, even with the elastic. And I even used clear elastic, which is much stretchier and more resilient than braid elastic.

Pos'n Tammy is wearing a pair with my modifications. Really, only one modification.

In this picture, you can see how the pattern piece is cut--how there's an allowance along the top to press under and a seam up the back. McCalls wants you to sew elastic on top of that turned-under allowance, then sew up the back seam, catching the ends of the elastic in it.

But you get a much nicer fit if you sew the back seam only partially--leave 1/2 or 3/4 inch open to the waist, then sew on a dainty little snap at the center back.

The waist will be too loose. So take them off the doll and put them back on her inside out. (The snap will still work.)

Run a gathering stitch around the waist.  I used a doubled thread, plus ran it through the waxer for extra strength.

Tammy doesn't have her underpants on inside out in this picture--but the stitching will be easier to start and end if you do reverse them.

This ends up with a rather customized fit for a particular doll. (Hah! Tailored underpants!) I think using elastic thread for the gathering thread would provide a little more flexibility to fit different dolls. But really, these are so quick to make, it isn't much trouble to make each girl her own.

This is the kind of underpants I like best for dolls, though here it appears as a bikini bottom. I worked out the pattern using methods learned from some Gene Marshall doll clothing.

I like them underpants to fit lower, around the hips, so that they don't add bulk to the waist. Also, I like them to close with a snap, with no elastic or even gathering. It creates a sleek fit that will look better under her outfits.

I like to line them, too, so that I don't have to topstitch around the leg holes or the waist--just looks more finished that way. When I started lining underpants, I had to redraft the pattern to allow for less stretch in the doubled fabric. I should try experimenting with knit lining sometime; maybe that will work better.

The bikini top is actually from an old commercial Barbie doll pattern! It didn't even need many adjustments. This doll is several inches taller than Barbie, but she's petite around the shoulders and bust.

Vintage Pattern Sewing: McCalls 2123 View A Jumpsuit, Scarf and Vest

And now we come to the only view with legs! This jumpsuit pattern shares characteristics with others in McCall 2123: sleeves cut-in-one with the body rather than set in separately, a self-faced jewel neckline, and a long bust dart that starts near the waist.

My favorite part of this view is the scarf. The instructions said to fray the edges for about 1/2 inch to make a fringe, and I enjoyed both the process and the way it came out.

The vest was designed for felt or vinyl--no facings at fronts or armholes and no edge-finishes. The white vinyl I had on hand was flannel-backed, but the extra thickness didn't cause too much trouble. Going through my stash, I really didn't see many suitable fabrics for the jumpsuit, or for the scarf either. If I were shopping at my favorite fabric store, I'd have chosen differently, but these cottons work well enough and didn't cost extra.

Pos'n Tammy in View A McCalls 2123

Pos'n Tammy gets to model it first because she has the best figure to wear all three pieces. It's a little too short through the torso for Misty, and TNT Barbie looks dwarfed in it, and poor little Francie just swims in it.

Tammy could use a little extra sleeve length, but other than that it fits her well.

If I were making it again, I'd use a silkier, drapey-er fabric for the scarf, and for a special outfit, maybe some ultra-suede for the vest.

TNT Barbie, my pretty Coco, in View A, McCalls 2123

For Barbie, I've adjusted the jumpsuit in back to look good in front! In reality, the neck and shoulders are too big for her, and the neckline doesn't sit well. But sometimes beauty is the art of illusion.

And for that matter, if I were a mom sewing this for my child to dress her Barbie in, I'd just make those adjustments permanent with my needle and thread instead of with straight pins.

The pose is making a great deal of difference here too! It's not so graceful-looking straight-on. I'm thinking the jumpsuit might hang better in a really silky, drape-y fabric too... I might just have some in my stash somewhere. 

The pattern pieces for View A jumpsuit, vest, and scarf from McCalls 2123.